Puto Naman O!

Puto Pains

Making puto has been one of the toughest culinary challenges I have ever faced and am still facing. One of the problems with making puto is that there are close to zero recipes out there of traditional, naturally fermented puto. A lot of the recipes make use of baking powder which produces a more cakey consistency and discolors the puto. That's just one problem. Another problem is that there are so many different kinds of puto. I categorize puto into 2 broad categories based on texture: the cakey variety and the malagkit/glutinous variety. Puto Manapla and puto made with baking powder are of the first category (although puto manapla doesn't have baking powder, I think). These types of puto have a more cakey and floury consistency. Puto calasiao and puto manaoag are of the second category. These have a stickier, slightly heavier, glutinous consistency although glutinous rice flour isn't used. My benchmark for puto is puto calasiao, those small round gummy rice balls of slightly sweet heaven that is produced in Calasiao, Pangasinan. A close second is puto manapla which are steamed in saba banana leaves and hail from the Ilocos region. Personally, I'm not a big fan of puto that has all the bells and whistles of cheese, salted eggs and grated coconut. These are merely embellishments that mask the simple yet profound flavor and texture of well made puto. The different varieties means that there is no one standard way of making puto. Another problem with making puto is the actual ingredients and method used. Some puto call for year old rice. Others require a specific type of rice. Others might require a mixture of short and long grain rice. Others add some cooked rice. The type of water used may also significantly affect fermentation, and the taste and texture of the finished product. The method is even more crucial and mysterious. Since there is no traditional rice grinder at home, using a blender is the best way to go. There is an ideal amount of time required for blending. Earthenware jars are traditionally used for fermentation. Some people believe that earthenware jars have an enzyme which helps in fermentation. Then there's the steaming. Steaming too long, too short, too low, too high etc. etc. could result in flat unrisen puto. Condensation and high humidity are also culprits of flat puto.

I've tried making puto numerous times, often with disastrous results. I'm happy to say I've made some progress, but am still far from achieving true puto enlightenment and nirvana. The recipes below do not make use of any baking powder but require natural fermentation instead. The method is similar to making bread like Sourdough that uses a natural starter. Making it this way results in a more complex tasting puto. At the end of the fermentation period, the rice starter must smell sour ... like feet. During the cooking process, 95% of the sourness disappears leaving just enough to give the puto's flavor some character. The first recipe is more like the second category of puto, the malagkit/glutinous variety. The second falls under the first category.


Puto 1

1/2 c short or medium grain rice
1/2 c long grain rice
1 c water
3/4 - 1 c sugar

Soak rice in water overnight. Blend until smooth. Add 1/2 c sugar, place in a non-metalic container, and let ferment covered loosely in room temp for 3 days. Add remaining sugar and let stand for 12 hours. Pour into molds lined with plasic wrap greased with oil and steam on high for 15 to 20 minutes.


Puto 2

1/2 c short or medium grain rice
1/2 c long grain rice
1 c water
3/4 - 1 c sugar
2 egg whites
2 tbsp powdered sugar

Soak rice in water overnight. Blend until smooth. Add sugar, place in a non-metalic container, and let ferment covered loosely in room temp for 3 days. Beat egg whites and powdered sugar until stiff picks. Fold into fermented rice mixture. Pour into molds lined with plasic wrap greased with oil and steam on high for 15 to 20 minutes.



Possible modifications: Add 2 to 3 tsp of oil to rice batter befor steaming.